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Hi, from TID to GID here, also from CDR2005 to CD70 navi, sorry for language, maybe google translate works, otherwise wheen neded I can make it in english.
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/8-upgrade-de-la-cdr2005-la-cd70-navi/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;From GID to CID here:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/43-de-la-gid-la-cid/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Original alarm system retrofit, not final yet:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/22-alarm%C4%83-original%C4%83/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Seats heating:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/46-%C3%AEnc%C4%83lzire-scaune/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Original bluetooth module with voice control and steering wheel controls:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/21-ad%C4%83ugare-modul-bluetooth-uhp4-la-corsa-c/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Interior mirror with auto dimming:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/6-oglind%C4%83-interioar%C4%83-electrocromatic%C4%83/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Seat belt warning sign in dash:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/5-martor-%C3%AEn-bord-pentru-centur%C4%83-%C8%99ofer/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Rear wheels mud protection (not oem cause it does not exist, but aftermarket):
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/31-carenaj-ro%C8%9Bi-spate-protec%C8%9Bie-noroi/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Electronic stability program and traction control:
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/24-montaj-esp/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Webasto fitting (in progress):
http://www.corsa-c.ro/index.php?/topic/29-%C3%AEnc%C4%83lzire-sta%C8%9Bionar%C4%83-webasto/” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Original xenon with washers and autolevelling here:
http://www.clubopel.com/viewtopic.php?t=104909&highlight=” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;Rain sensor:
http://www.clubopel.com/viewtopic.php?t=104844&highlight=” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;About Corsa C, check all necessary lights are ON and going OFF when engine is started or before that: engine, ABS (if fitted), airbag, Electric Power Steering (EPS), dynamo, oil pressure, immobiliser, handbrake (in this picture engine light is missing!).
It is very easy to change km on Corsa C dashboard, with a cheap opcom 25 eur tool. So do not necessarily rely on it, but look around the car. Check steering if strange noises inside car, maybe EPS motor damage. Have opcom or other tool with you, check engine operation and lambda sensor fluctuation aprox 200-800 mV as will indicate good mixture burning. Check brake pads if not worn out, check handbrake, check exhaust if leakage or not, check brake pedal if push is ok, check for oil leakages on engine, check service records, last timing belt change, oil filter, oil, fuel filter, spark plugs.
Check doors and side panels for accident marks, correct fitting. Check all equipment if correct working. Hope it helps.
That is good as well. Your car serial is W0L0XCF0824281046.
I have also 2 codes:
– GM 93182029, pump assembly, PIERBURG, no longer supplied, replaced by GM 93189693
– GM 95507589, pump assembly, SHW/AIRTEX.I think the difference lies with the manufacturer. I cannot advise you further. You need to find out which maker you have on board.
Best is to buy based on the original GM number. If you give me your serial number of the car (VIN), I can look it up in Electronic Parts Catalogue (EPC4). Although I will not give any warranty (for info, on my car it worked ok so far).
Official from ACDelco by online subscription. Around 1400 dolars per year.
https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/subscribehome” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;
You can also google around for tis2000 or globaltis.
K46 – relay washer pump headlamp
A119R – signal converter module vehicle speed right
A119L – signal converter module vehicle speed left
K30D – relay radiator fan
K30C – relay radiator fan
K30A – relay radiator fan
K5 – relay comperssor air conditioning
K30B – relay radiator fan
K26 – relay engine control unit
K34 – relay spill valve
K35 – relay fuel pump
K55 – relay heated back window
K49 – relay heater back window
K72 – relay terminal 15a
K61 – relay starter
K50 – relay terminal 15
K76R – relay parking light right
K39 – relay fog lamp front
K58 – relay fog lamp rear
K45 – relay high beam
K76L – relay parking light left
K43 – relay low beamIf you have free parking in Amsterdam :D , why not, then I can enjoy a visit in the city. You need the wiring in place anyway, so have a check in one of the doors first.
I am not sure if such control unit supports SPS software update from Omega, but if that is possible, one serial number VIN from such Omega is needed.
Liviu
As far as I can search in TIS, there is a connection from Control Unit – Central locking, plug X61 pin 24, wire colour Brown Black, cross section 0.5 mm2. Wire ends up at each window motor pin 6. Same wire goes to sunroof motor pin 4.
For sure if there is a function to activate with tech2, it must be in the Central locking control unit. Most probably, must be something in Variant Configuration to set from Not Present to Present. I never plugged my tech2 to Vectra B, so I am guessing a bit.
I guess is the 1.3 cdti engine. No board computer possible on this engine, one Graphic Infotainment Display can only show radio data, navigation (if cd70 navi fitted) and bluetooth interface for telephone (if UHP4 and original microphone is fitted).
Gearbox errors must be read (opcom), on this gearbox clutch gearbox fluid must be regulary changed and also clutch contact point re-learned by procedure.
Sorry I do it in English, my Dutch is not very good.
+12V on ecu X76:D3, X76:C16
0V on ecu X76:C9, X75:B1.Starter crank signal on X75:B8, +12V.
ECU broken.
It can be a so called “false” voltage. In the moment a load is inserted in circuit, voltage drops rapidly because the source cannot maintain it. Most probably you need to look further. Relays should be fine with 80-85% of the nominal voltage.
Indeed that is my advertisment on the forum. It is also possible that you give me your ecu (only if it is was never opened) and a difference from your side.
@ZakhooiTM wrote:
Laatste keer dat ik dit probleem had gezien was de ECU op z’n einde (zelfde ECU trouwens)
Je zou om het uit te sluiten een extra massa vanaf de accu naar de ECU kunnen trekken en een massa naar de relais trekken zodat deze altijd geactiveerd blijft.That’s a bit dangerous in case of crash, fuel can keep going out of the tank. Indeed ECU is the main suspect. Extra massa maybe only for a ride test and thats it.
@kelsey, I have two ecu spare if you want to find if that is the problem.@Opeltje17 wrote:
Yeah i look in tis bit cant find nothing about a wire going to ignition coil. Pin a
Fuse 3.46 outputs 2 wires to engine Z22SE, one wire to X77 pin 19 and after 2003 1/2 one wire to ignition coil pin A. You really need to have the diagrams from TIS, print them.
At half 2003 there was a change in the wiring, pin A of the spark coil got ignition on +12V from fuse F3.46. But I cannot tell what kind of wiring you have, if all ok, you need to have this +12V on pin A spark coil.
There is no other power supply or ground to X78.
Pin 30 is an ECU Output with – towards relay K18 coil, relay K18 giving +12V to a lot of things on the engine (injectors, etc).
I do not understand second question, feed lines are on X77, as I write above, nothing on X78.
Yes, you are correct, it is the bolt on the ECU, one sec I will post a picture.
Check fuses F3.46 and F2. Anything else?
